Baked Pasta with Wild Mushroom Ragu

This must be vegetarian week. I was craving this dish which I first made in '98 (Food and Wine, 1/98). It's a nice fall entree and you won't miss your protein, because the mushrooms provide an incredible meatiness. I'm using whole grain pasta (hope that doesn't change anything) and I've chosen cremini mushrooms, oyster mushrooms and chantarelles. You can use all cremini if you want, but I wouldn't use white mushrooms, you'll miss out on the depth of flavor that "wild" mushrooms have. I think that any type of dried mushrooms will work if you can't find porcini. As someone once told me "improvise."

Baked Pasta with Wild Mushroom Ragu, serves 3++, Total time: 1 hour 10 minutes*

*Can be assembled and refrigerated overnight. Bring the pasta to room temperature before baking.

1/2 cup boiling water

1/4 cup dried porcini (1/4 oz)

1 sun-dried tomato half, not oil packed

1 medium onion, chopped

2 tsp. minced garlic

1 tbsp olive oil plus 1/2 tsp

1/4 cup dry red wine

1 thyme sprig

1/2# fresh wild mushrooms

1 can (14.5 oz) Italian peeled tomatoes, chopped, with their juices

1/2 tsp sugar

1/4 tsp salt

Freshly ground pepper

1/2# penne

3/4 oz. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (about 1/3 cup)

2.5 oz. ricotta salata cheese, thinly sliced or coarsely grated

In a heatproof bowl, pour the boiling water over the dried porcini and tomatoes. Cover and let steep until softened, at least 15 minutes.

In a medium saucepan, heat the oil over medium high heat, add the onions and garlic. Cover and cook over moderate heat until the onions begin to wilt, about 5 minutes. Uncover and saute until the onions are just beginning to brown, about 2 minutes.

Scoop the dried mushrooms and tomatoes into a strainer, reserving the soaking liquid. Rinse under cool water to remove any grit; squeeze dry. Chop coarsely and set aside.

Carefully spoon about 1/3 cup of the clear soaking liquid into the saucepan, leaving behind any grit. Add the red wine and thyme and boil for 1 minute. Add the fresh mushrooms and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the canned tomatoes and their juices, the dried mushrooms and tomatoes, the sugar and the salt. Cover partially and simmer until the mushrooms are tender and the ragu is thick, about 15 minutes. Season generously with pepper (and, if needed, salt).

Preheat the oven to 375. Brush a shallow 1 quart casserole with the remaining 1/2 tsp oil. Cook the penne in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring, until barely al dente, about 5 minutes (don't overcook, it will continue in the oven). Drain the pasta and return it to the pot. Add the mushroom ragu and 1/4 cup of the Parmigiano-Reggiano and toss. Season with pepper. Pour half of the pasta into the prepared casserole, top with the ricotta salata and add the remaining pasta. Sprinkle the remaining Parmigiano-Reggiano over the top. Bake the pasta for about 20 minutes, or until heated through and the top is lightly crisp. Serve at once.

Bottom Line: Just as I remembered it, however, this recipe really makes more than 3 servings, more like 5 (at least 4 generous ones) . I might not use the whole 1/2# of pasta, just slightly less and it would be more moist, which I would prefer. It was not dry, but I like a little gravy :)